Discover how to make a jacket pattern that's ready to cut and sew with guidance from expert patternmaker Oticca Beamer! Begin by transforming a bodice sloper you already have into a custom jacket sloper by adding ease in all the right places. As you draft, Oticca will teach you how to true the pieces so they'll sew together perfectly. You'll then use your jacket sloper to design a tailored jacket pattern, incorporating designs for the lapel and button extension. Continue creating essential front pieces with an upper and undercollar, flattering princess seams and tips for pocket placement. Next, add stability by making facing and lining pieces. Move on to designing the back pattern piece by adding a neck facing and a lining pattern with jump and back pleats. Finish your pattern by drafting a two-piece sleeve, truing the inner and outer sleeve pieces and creating a sleeve lining.
Meet your instructor, Oticca Beamer, and start learning how to draft a jacket sloper from your own bodice sloper. Then you'll add ease to the bodice sloper back for the room you'll need in a jacket. Finally, measure the neck and armhole and learn how to relocate the back armhole notch.
Add ease to the front bodice sloper and don't forget to square your edges! Then true the front jacket sloper you've created to the back jacket sloper. Add ease to the bodice sleeve to create a jacket sleeve sloper, and compare the jacket armhole circumference to the sleeve cap measurement.
Now you'll begin to draft your custom jacket pattern from the jacket sloper you've created, as Oticca demonstrates how to add ease for an optional shoulder pad. Then design and draft your button extension and lapel break. Finally complete the lapel shape and see some of Oticca's favorite variations.
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