Dance Top Picks

Sewing Blog

FREE Pattern! Make a 1-Hour Dopp Kit With Fat Quarters

This manly pouch is a great idea to gift to that hard-to-sew-for person in your life. This kit is lined, with fully finished seams and sturdy handles at each end. It is generously sized at 10″ long, 6½” wide and 4″ high. 

Keep reading to find out how you can sew an easy, fat-quarter friendly Dopp kit in only 1 hour.

One Hour Dopp Kit FeatureOne Hour Dopp Kit Lining

Dopp kit tutorial

(Want to save or print this tutorial? Click here to download the FREE PDF version!)

Make this Dopp kit from linen, heavier or quilting cottons, canvas or home decor–weight fabric. If you’d like the interior to be water-resistant, it can be also lined with oilcloth.

One Hour Dopp Kit Materials


  • Outer fabric: 15″ x 22″ for the body and 3″ x 10″ for the handles.
  • Lining fabric: 15″ x 22″
  • Fusible fleece: 15″ x 22″ and 3″ x 10″ (optional on heavier fabrics)
  • 16″ zipper (does not need to be a separating zipper)

Step 1: Apply the fusible fleece

1 Apply Fusible Fleece to outer

Fuse fleece to wrong side of outer fabric and handle, following the manufacturer’s directions.

Step 2: Create the handle

2a Fold Handle sides to the center

Fold the handle fabric in half lengthwise and press. Then fold each long edge into the center fold. 

2b Fold Handle in Half

Fold everything in half along the first lengthwise fold. Press well. 

2c Topstitch Handle and Cut in Two

Topstitch along each edge and once in the center. Cut in half to make two 5″ pieces. Set aside.

Step 3: Secure the zipper

Place your lining fabric right side up. Open the zipper and align it along the short edge of the lining with the pull tab facing up.

3b Install zipper

The top zipper stops should be ½” away from the left side of the fabric.

3a Install zipper

Align one short edge of the outer fabric with the zipper and lining, wrong side up. Pin or glue baste the zipper in place in preparation for sewing.

Stitch the short edge with a ¼” seam. Use a zipper foot if desired, or move your needle to the right and use your regular foot.

Step 4: Sew the other side of the zipper

Next, we’ll sew the other end of the lining and outer fabrics to the other half of the zipper.

4 Install zipper

Keeping the zipper open, fold the lining right sides together; then fold the outer fabric so it is right sides together with the un-sewn short end of the lining.

Align both fabrics with the zipper, making sure the zipper stops are ½” away from the right side of the fabric, and the zipper tab is facing up. Pin or glue baste the zipper in place, then stitch with a ¼” seam.

Step 5: Topstitch the zipper

5 Topstitch zipper

Adjust your project so that the lining and outer fabrics are wrong sides together, and the two parts of the zipper are aligned (but leave it un-zipped for now). Press the lining and outer fabrics back from each edge of the zipper, then topstitch.

Step 6: Align and pin the zipper in the center

6 Center zipper

Fold the Dopp kit so your lining is right sides together. Close the zipper and shift the pieces so that the zipper is exactly 5½” in from both edges of the outer fabric (see photo above). Pin both ends of the zipper in place at center to keep them in place through the next step.

Step 7:

7a Cut Dopp kit corners7b Cut Dopp kit corners

From each corner, cut a rectangle that is 1¾” x by 1½”. Unpin your zipper.

Step 8: Turn inside out

8 Turn Dopp kit inside out

Turn fabrics inside out, so that the outer fabric is right sides together. Unzip your zipper a few inches.

Step 9: Pin handles in place

9 Pin handles on outer fabric

Separate the two layers of outer fabric. Pin a handle to each end of the Dopp kit around the zipper as shown in the photo above. 

Step 10: Sew sides closed

10 Stitch ends of Dopp kit

After making sure the lining and outer fabric are aligned well, pin them together. Then, Stitch each short end of the Dopp kit with a 3/8″ seam.

Stitch slowly over the zipper to avoid breaking your needle. Trim any excess zipper tape if desired. Finish seam allowances if desired.

Step 11: Turn right side out

11 Turn Dopp kit right side out

Turn the Dopp kit right side out through one of the rectangular corner cuts. It may seem like it won’t budge, but it will turn — just keep pulling it through and be patient.

Step 12: Align the corners

12 Flatten and align edges

Re-align all corners and edges of the Dopp kit, paying close attention to the corner layers.

13 Stitch boxed corners

Open one of the cut corners and align the short-end seam with the center of the corner edges (see photo above). Make sure all the layers are well aligned. This will make a nice boxed corner.

Step 13: Sew and trim the boxed corners

14 Trim boxed corners

Stitch the raw edges with a ¼” seam.

Trim the seam to 1/8″. Repeat Steps 12 and 13 for the other three corners.

Step 14: Finish the French seams

15a Turn Dopp kit inside out15b Prepare French seam

Turn the Dopp kit inside out. Push out the four boxed corners well along their seams and pin each one.

16 Stitch French seams

Stitch each boxed corner with a 3/8″ seam, finishing the french seams and enclosing all raw edges.

Step 15: Press

17 Turn Dopp kit right side out and press

Turn your finished Dopp kit right side out and press each seamed edge as desired. 

Sew zippered bags with absolute confidence!

zip it up craftsy class

Learn 3 versatile methods and sew 3 fun bags, as you enjoy 7 HD, online video lessons. Watch FREE in Bluprint Get the Class

Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in December 2015 and was updated in December 2017.


reina caballero

I like. It is easy to make. And it´s useful.

Sherri | Thread Riding Hood

I’m so glad you like it Reina! Thank you!

Barbara OConnor

Made my first one today. Can’t believe the pattern was free. It worked up so nice. I will be making many more. Thank you very much!

Steph F.

Great tutorial! I’ve been binding the seams, but now I’m going to try the french seams!

Sherri | Thread Riding Hood

Great idea to use binding 🙂 So glad you like the french seams!


Love this, looking forward to trying. Just wish it was print friendly.


I agree. I’d really like to print it out.


Love this tutorial!
Just one (dumb??) question….what is a “Dopp kit”?

Sherri | Thread Riding Hood

Hi Nell. I wondered that too! Apparently Dopplet was the last name of the first person to start making these manly toiletry bags. The bags were mostly made of leather, and they were called Dopps in recognition of him.


Ha! I have been using French seams in my dopp bags for a long time because I’m super lazy, but I also find that sewing them this way have other benefits like keeping the lining nice and smooth (even after washing) and adds more structure at the corners!

These are very clear instructions! Bravo



Great tutorial. I love the French seams. I’ve “played around” with 3 different patterns and your’s is just what I’ve been looking for. I’ve made over 2 dozen bags in the past weeks. Thank you and Happy Holidays. Pat


GREAT TUTORIAL! I do have a suggestion:
Step 11 says: Turn the Dopp kit right side out through one of the rectangular corner cuts. It may seem slow, but it will turn – just keep pulling it through.


Sherri | Thread Riding Hood

Thanks Lorraine! I’m glad you like it 🙂 Unfortunately, due to the construction, the zipper is fully hidden in between the layers. Only the wrong side of the lining and outer fabrics is showing. Usually, the zipper trick would work, though – good thinking!


I’ve made several of these for Christmas gifts this year and previous years using different patterns. I’m going to try your pattern today. I love the French seam idea. However, I have been using Soft & Stable or headliner fabric, so I’m sure that would be too thick to pull through the corner opening. One revision I’ve made that I really like is to use zipper tabs. Then I can serge the seam and not serge over zipper teeth if that’s the way I’m making a bag. Thanks for your other great tutorials.

Sherri | Thread Riding Hood

Hmmm… Yes, I can see it being too thick to pull through the corner too. Maybe you could make larger corners (taller bag?). Or put a seam down the center of the lining for turning. LOVE your zipper tab idea – sounds really helpful. I’m glad you like the tutorials! Thank you!


Thanks so much – easy tutorial – I made one for my dad to fill with toilertries for Christmas!


Hi, just finished making this and if you stick your fingers in the cut out corners, pull the zipper tab down, then just turn it right side out this is so much easier than trying to pull everything through the small corner opening, especially if using thicker material, just as mentioned by Lorraine. Thanks for the great tutorial!

Sherri | Thread Riding Hood

Thanks Ruth! I will have to try this myself 🙂 Must have not understood it when Lorraine mentioned it before. Great!


Just finished making one of these, and it really did go together quickly! I plan to make a couple slightly downsized versions to finish off my gift list. Thanks for the tutorial.


thanks so much for the tut just made one !


I made one with indoor-outdoor canvas, and used 1/8-inch fusible lining. Would NOT recommend lining that style of canvas. Too thick , and the PUL lining I used ended up being “too long” on the inside after I tuned out the pieces after attaching the zipper… probably because the doubled lining+outer material took way more space. I ended up needing to make an accordion pleat along the zipper with the excess lining material so that it matched up inside without bunching when I was sewing all of the following seams.


I have made pouches like this and have always ended up using bias tape to hide the seam on the inside. But your technique is ingenious!!!!. Thank you so much!

Tina Spear

Is there a way I can save this pattern and tutorial in my Craftsy account in my pattern library?


I want to make one using a 14″ zipper – how would the dimensions change for the lining and outer pieces?

Sherri | Thread Riding Hood

Hi Cheryl – you can try the following, keep in mind it will make a shorter/taller DOPP kit that will be much less wide than the original.
Outer fabric 13″ x 22″
Lining fabric 13″ x 22″
Fusible fleece 13″ x 22″ and 3″ x 10″ (optional on heavier fabrics)
Outer Fabric 3″x10″ (handles)
14″ zipper (does not need to be a separating zipper)


How did you finish the seam allowance after step 10? In the pictures you have raw edges but somehow later in the instructions you have finished seams, would you be able to explain how you did this? I realized later that they were unfinished raw edges but wasn’t sure how to get the seams you have shown in steps 15-17. Thanks

Sherri | Thread Riding Hood

Hi Karissa – the seams are hidden when you turn the bag right side out in steps 11-14 🙂 Hope that helps! Sherri


lol it doesn’t help! My seams are exposed as well and I can’t figure it out. I’ve made 2 of these.

Lydia Tapley

Thank you for this tutorial! Brilliant instructions and measurements. I really enjoyed it and am very happy with the resulting Dopp kit. It did, however, take me more than an hour ….?. More like four! ( a bit of unpicking was necessary!! ) But I am very particular and I used difficult fabrics. One difficulty was that my lining (laminated cotton, did not seem to “fit” inside without wrinkles.
Would it be possible to make the same size but with the bottom half being laminated to prevent it getting wet at the sink? Joining the top material 5.5″ x 15″ to a piece of laminate 11″ long 15″ wide and to another top piece 5.5″ x 15″ (with enough added to both, for a join)? I may have to give it a try! Thanks again!

Sherri | Thread Riding Hood

Lol! Yes! The first time it does take a bit longer. 🙂 I think your idea will work so long as the resulting piece is the same size as the outer – great idea!


My daughter is wanting a bag like this that’s 7″ high, 7″ wide and 10″ long. I’ve drawn picture after picture and still can’t figure out what size I need to cut the fabric to even get started. Is there a formula I can use?


Thank you for this pattern Was going to buy one for my husband for Christmas and home made is much more meaningful. How easy is this to make a little larger?


This is my new favorite pattern, I have made 3 of these so far. My quilting guild makes toiletry bags for various organizations & I’m having a great time making bags with this pattern. I did make a slight change, I use bias tape to seal the inside ends (step 11), it makes a clean smooth finish inside the bags.


I like the structure that the french seams add. If i wanted to add even more structure to the finished bag (since zipping it all the way across with one hand is difficult), could i add additional french seams along the long edges? or would the original seams get in the way and bunch things up?


Thanks for the awesome pattern!!!! I just finished and I love it. I doubled up on the batting and quilted the outside. Wishing now I’d added a bit of interfacing too, I thought the laminated cotton would give it a bit more body. But once it’s got stuff in it’ll be fine. Love it. made a great present


I can’t figure out why my seams in step 11 are showing at the end, when they are enclosed in the pictures. The first time, I turned the bag through the zipper so I thought that’s why my seams were out, but this time I turned through the corner and those seams are still exposed. Help!


I am having the same issue. Higher up in the thread a suggestion was made but it did not help at all. I wonder if the seams were folded down when the box corners were sewn?


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Leave a Reply